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Linda's Scallop Directions

Page 2
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Now for the multiple, easy steps to making scallops!

4. Decide on the shape of your scallop.

Plates and bowls and kitchen items are handy for this and quilters knew this in 1799 and 1863 too. The shallower and wider your scallop, the easier it will be to pivot neatly at the inside points and get a smooth finish. On a replica of the Dear Jane quilt you have one scallop per 5" triangle base, and a corner designed by Jane Stickle, which probably reflects the shape of some of her household items. The photo on the inside front cover of Dear Jane gives a close-up view. 

The scallops on In Time of Friendship are about 6.5 inches wide.

5. Make a template of your shape with 1/4" seam allowance added.

If the depth of your scallops is 1 3/4" or less (mine was), draw the shape with a fine Pigma Micron marker on 2" masking tape and add 1/4" seam allowance. Make it 2 or 3 layers of tape thick, and long enough for about 4 perfect scallops. Show the stitching line and the 1/4" seam allowance on your template. Carefully cut the outside curve on the masking tape. You will be tracing along this edge, so try to cut the curve accurately and smoothly. Try to keep the masking tape from sticking to everything while you do this. Chocolate helps, taken internally. Clean your scissors with nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol later. Do not take this internally.  Do not mix this up! If you are making a scallop deeper than 2", you might use layers of contact paper for the template instead. Be sure every scallop is identical to the others NOW!

6. Place your masking tape template into position on the quilt top and press it down firmly.

7. Trace the scallop edge onto your quilt top.

Use a fine Pigma Micron marker or mechanical pencil. This line will be used for placement of the edges of your bias binding.  Keep moving your template around the quilt until all of the scallops are marked.

8. Decide on your corner treatment. 

You can choose any shape that looks good to you--curves or right angles or anything else.  Make your template and mark all four corners the same way. 

The corners on "In Time of Friendship" are 90 degrees.

9. Do NOT cut the curves yet.

Your edge is still not cut in curves. Restrain yourself.  :-)

10.  Machine stitch along the line you have just drawn, using a medium/large stitch and pivoting at the inside points.

Make sure that all of your layers are smooth and flat and that the batting will fill the binding. This stitching line is just to hold your top, batting and backing together and give you a guide for placing the raw edges of your bias binding. Consider using a contrasting thread if it will make it easier to see. It will be trimmed off later. 

11. Make sure your batting will extend all the way to the outer edge of your binding.

Tuck in small bits if necessary to be sure the binding will be firm all the way around. 

12. Double check that you are happy that all the layers (top-batting-backing) are smooth and pucker-free.

You cannot fix this later. If there are little bulges or ripples now, they will be worse later. Rip out some stitching and do it over if you need to. 

13. Triple check that you are happy with the shape your edge will have.

This is really your last chance. The edge of your fabric is still straight. Do NOT cut the curves yet. VBG

I have read this far and I still want to proceed.

I need to see In Time of Friendship again before I decide.

I am afraid and I want to go home. 

 

 


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